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Carry-On 4x6 gear hauler


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LordKaos

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#1
Hey guys! I am currently turning a Carry-on 4x6' utility trailer into a camp gear hauler. I have a lot of ideas and am slowly working out what mods and add-ons would be best for my needs, a RTT may be in my future, not sure yet.  I have no real access to wood working tools and skills but do have access to every other tool and metalworking need you could think of so I will do anything possible with metal.  Within the first 5 days of driving this trailer 3 out of 4 lights had burned out already. Right off the bat it was clear the wiring and lights were sub-par and had to go, so I cut and removed all the wires first thing. The thing I disliked most about this trailer was the wiring tubes running inside the bed, making putting up squared sides impossible without a routing table , so I immediately pried and cut them off, then ground it all smooth. I then proceeded to cut off the tailgate and latches, then ground it all smooth and threw 2 coats of Rustoleum on it all.  I was looking for wire to redo it all and got lucky on black friday. West Marine was having 20% off everything and free shipping so I picked up some sheathed and tinned marine grade 14g 2-wire and 3-wire for under $18. I then got a trailer wiring junction box and some 1/2" pvc pipe and proper mounting brackets for it.  Ordered Optronics One led rear lights and new led side markers, once that arrived I proceeded to rewire it all I ran the wires down the side of the trailer, inside the fender through the pvc pipe, then any point where it was exposed I used wire loom, and doubled it in any place that might rub against the body of the trailer. 

  Next I went out and got the new PVC plywood that can be found in some major chain home repair stores, I got mine at HD. It is 4'x8' true measurement, 1/2" thick sheet of pvc that cuts with normal wood cutting blades, never rots, holds screws super well and also takes acrylic paint like a champion. I had HD cut the sheets for me to some different sizes and I got lucky with a guy who was clearly skilled with the saw there and every cut came out clean and exactly the same. At this point I am unsure exactly how I want to do the sides , so that is something I am putting on a back burner for now.  I ordered some of scott's no weld towers and then went out and got some squared superstrut tube, bolts and the proper strut nuts. I measured and cut the strut in half into 2- 5' sections, then measured out and mocked everything up in my basement.  The one thing for sure is that the front of my trailer will be a 47" x 19" black diamond plate tool box that I have at home, there will be a battery and power connections inside, as well as a space for my small generator on one side. 

  I decided to do the axle under spring mod , later this week the welder is doing my spring seats for me, and thursday my new tires will be here. I decided to upgrade from the stock 12-5.30" bias ply 65mph tires (which in no way was good enough for how I drive, lol) to some 175r13 Class C radial tires and black rims with a 81mph speed rating. They are 3.5" taller then the 12-5.30 stock tires, so should sit at exactly the same spacing in relation to the fenders as it is now, since you gain about 3.5" in height with this swap. 


After doing some thinking about my needs I decided to lengthen my trailer tongue 12" to accommodate the 12"x 30" wide aluminum tool box I had primed and bed lined for the previous project that got scrapped.I will put tire repair and replacement tools , straps, bungees and the like in the box.   Adding this length will help prevent hitting the box with the back of my GMC Terrain if I were to jackknife it. With my tongue now 5' long I took it to a local welder and had him weld on a pipe swivel jack mount, chain retainers in the front, then a second set of chain retainers 16" further back so there is a place to hang the chains when not hooked to a vehicle. There are some more mods I am working  on and I will post about those as they come along more. I will hopefully be able to post some pictures in the next few days , weather allowing.

dcollier32

Senior Member


Posts: 67
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Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 3

#2
(01-01-2019, 05:21 PM) LordKaos Wrote: Hey guys! I am currently turning a Carry-on 4x6' utility trailer into a camp gear hauler. I have a lot of ideas and am slowly working out what mods and add-ons would be best for my needs, a RTT may be in my future, not sure yet.  I have no real access to wood working tools and skills but do have access to every other tool and metalworking need you could think of so I will do anything possible with metal.  Within the first 5 days of driving this trailer 3 out of 4 lights had burned out already. Right off the bat it was clear the wiring and lights were sub-par and had to go, so I cut and removed all the wires first thing. The thing I disliked most about this trailer was the wiring tubes running inside the bed, making putting up squared sides impossible without a routing table , so I immediately pried and cut them off, then ground it all smooth. I then proceeded to cut off the tailgate and latches, then ground it all smooth and threw 2 coats of Rustoleum on it all.  I was looking for wire to redo it all and got lucky on black friday. West Marine was having 20% off everything and free shipping so I picked up some sheathed and tinned marine grade 14g 2-wire and 3-wire for under $18. I then got a trailer wiring junction box and some 1/2" pvc pipe and proper mounting brackets for it.  Ordered Optronics One led rear lights and new led side markers, once that arrived I proceeded to rewire it all I ran the wires down the side of the trailer, inside the fender through the pvc pipe, then any point where it was exposed I used wire loom, and doubled it in any place that might rub against the body of the trailer. 

  Next I went out and got the new PVC plywood that can be found in some major chain home repair stores, I got mine at HD. It is 4'x8' true measurement, 1/2" thick sheet of pvc that cuts with normal wood cutting blades, never rots, holds screws super well and also takes acrylic paint like a champion. I had HD cut the sheets for me to some different sizes and I got lucky with a guy who was clearly skilled with the saw there and every cut came out clean and exactly the same. At this point I am unsure exactly how I want to do the sides , so that is something I am putting on a back burner for now.  I ordered some of scott's no weld towers and then went out and got some squared superstrut tube, bolts and the proper strut nuts. I measured and cut the strut in half into 2- 5' sections, then measured out and mocked everything up in my basement.  The one thing for sure is that the front of my trailer will be a 47" x 19" black diamond plate tool box that I have at home, there will be a battery and power connections inside, as well as a space for my small generator on one side. 

  I decided to do the axle under spring mod , later this week the welder is doing my spring seats for me, and thursday my new tires will be here. I decided to upgrade from the stock 12-5.30" bias ply 65mph tires (which in no way was good enough for how I drive, lol) to some 175r13 Class C radial tires and black rims with a 81mph speed rating. They are 3.5" taller then the 12-5.30 stock tires, so should sit at exactly the same spacing in relation to the fenders as it is now, since you gain about 3.5" in height with this swap. 


After doing some thinking about my needs I decided to lengthen my trailer tongue 12" to accommodate the 12"x 30" wide aluminum tool box I had primed and bed lined for the previous project that got scrapped.I will put tire repair and replacement tools , straps, bungees and the like in the box.   Adding this length will help prevent hitting the box with the back of my GMC Terrain if I were to jackknife it. With my tongue now 5' long I took it to a local welder and had him weld on a pipe swivel jack mount, chain retainers in the front, then a second set of chain retainers 16" further back so there is a place to hang the chains when not hooked to a vehicle. There are some more mods I am working  on and I will post about those as they come along more. I will hopefully be able to post some pictures in the next few days , weather allowing.


Thanks for the write up! I too am building a 4x6 Overland/utility camp trailer. Haven't gotten started yet, still saving money and finalizing the design I want. Could you possibly upload pictures of the mods you've done already? I am curious to see how you've done it. Also, this PVC plywood you speak of, do you know the proper name for it? I'm going to HD this evening to see if I can find it here in GA. Thanks in advance. Looking forward to following your build.
Derek C.
Hampton, GA

Scott

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#3
Yes, with the axle under the springs. 24" tall 13" trailer tires fit under the stock fenders, although stick up about an inch past the fenders.
Scott Chaney - Owner of Compact Camping Concepts
Home of the DIY Explorer Box and Dinoot trailers, also Tent Topped camping

LordKaos

Senior Member


Posts: 54
Threads: 2
Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 0

#4
(01-02-2019, 05:47 AM) dcollier32 Wrote:
(01-01-2019, 05:21 PM) LordKaos Wrote: Hey guys! I am currently turning a Carry-on 4x6' utility trailer into a camp gear hauler. I have a lot of ideas and am slowly working out what mods and add-ons would be best for my needs, a RTT may be in my future, not sure yet.  I have no real access to wood working tools and skills but do have access to every other tool and metalworking need you could think of so I will do anything possible with metal.  Within the first 5 days of driving this trailer 3 out of 4 lights had burned out already. Right off the bat it was clear the wiring and lights were sub-par and had to go, so I cut and removed all the wires first thing. The thing I disliked most about this trailer was the wiring tubes running inside the bed, making putting up squared sides impossible without a routing table , so I immediately pried and cut them off, then ground it all smooth. I then proceeded to cut off the tailgate and latches, then ground it all smooth and threw 2 coats of Rustoleum on it all.  I was looking for wire to redo it all and got lucky on black friday. West Marine was having 20% off everything and free shipping so I picked up some sheathed and tinned marine grade 14g 2-wire and 3-wire for under $18. I then got a trailer wiring junction box and some 1/2" pvc pipe and proper mounting brackets for it.  Ordered Optronics One led rear lights and new led side markers, once that arrived I proceeded to rewire it all I ran the wires down the side of the trailer, inside the fender through the pvc pipe, then any point where it was exposed I used wire loom, and doubled it in any place that might rub against the body of the trailer. 

  Next I went out and got the new PVC plywood that can be found in some major chain home repair stores, I got mine at HD. It is 4'x8' true measurement, 1/2" thick sheet of pvc that cuts with normal wood cutting blades, never rots, holds screws super well and also takes acrylic paint like a champion. I had HD cut the sheets for me to some different sizes and I got lucky with a guy who was clearly skilled with the saw there and every cut came out clean and exactly the same. At this point I am unsure exactly how I want to do the sides , so that is something I am putting on a back burner for now.  I ordered some of scott's no weld towers and then went out and got some squared superstrut tube, bolts and the proper strut nuts. I measured and cut the strut in half into 2- 5' sections, then measured out and mocked everything up in my basement.  The one thing for sure is that the front of my trailer will be a 47" x 19" black diamond plate tool box that I have at home, there will be a battery and power connections inside, as well as a space for my small generator on one side. 

  I decided to do the axle under spring mod , later this week the welder is doing my spring seats for me, and thursday my new tires will be here. I decided to upgrade from the stock 12-5.30" bias ply 65mph tires (which in no way was good enough for how I drive, lol) to some 175r13 Class C radial tires and black rims with a 81mph speed rating. They are 3.5" taller then the 12-5.30 stock tires, so should sit at exactly the same spacing in relation to the fenders as it is now, since you gain about 3.5" in height with this swap. 


After doing some thinking about my needs I decided to lengthen my trailer tongue 12" to accommodate the 12"x 30" wide aluminum tool box I had primed and bed lined for the previous project that got scrapped.I will put tire repair and replacement tools , straps, bungees and the like in the box.   Adding this length will help prevent hitting the box with the back of my GMC Terrain if I were to jackknife it. With my tongue now 5' long I took it to a local welder and had him weld on a pipe swivel jack mount, chain retainers in the front, then a second set of chain retainers 16" further back so there is a place to hang the chains when not hooked to a vehicle. There are some more mods I am working  on and I will post about those as they come along more. I will hopefully be able to post some pictures in the next few days , weather allowing.


Thanks for the write up! I too am building a 4x6 Overland/utility camp trailer. Haven't gotten started yet, still saving money and finalizing the design I want. Could you possibly upload pictures of the mods you've done already? I am curious to see how you've done it. Also, this PVC plywood you speak of, do you know the proper name for it? I'm going to HD this evening to see if I can find it here in GA. Thanks in advance. Looking forward to following your build.

Here is a link for what home depot shows on their website. Most of my local stores didn't have it in store, but one 20 minutes away did. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-HP-1.../205309788  They refer to it as pvc trim, it's dense cellular pvc or vinyl in a single layer sheet,  they also have varying sizes of boards that could be useful for low sides or framing. It can be glued using pvc pipe cement also. I don't think the one I got is the Veranda brand showing on the website, and in store it was only $63 a sheet.  Being that it is only 1/2" thick is is not super rigid, but makes a good floor or perhaps box walls with frame support. I am going out to take a couple pictures here in a little bit before it gets dark.

dcollier32

Senior Member


Posts: 67
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 3

#5
(01-02-2019, 11:16 AM) LordKaos Wrote:
(01-02-2019, 05:47 AM) dcollier32 Wrote:
(01-01-2019, 05:21 PM) LordKaos Wrote: Hey guys! I am currently turning a Carry-on 4x6' utility trailer into a camp gear hauler. I have a lot of ideas and am slowly working out what mods and add-ons would be best for my needs, a RTT may be in my future, not sure yet.  I have no real access to wood working tools and skills but do have access to every other tool and metalworking need you could think of so I will do anything possible with metal.  Within the first 5 days of driving this trailer 3 out of 4 lights had burned out already. Right off the bat it was clear the wiring and lights were sub-par and had to go, so I cut and removed all the wires first thing. The thing I disliked most about this trailer was the wiring tubes running inside the bed, making putting up squared sides impossible without a routing table , so I immediately pried and cut them off, then ground it all smooth. I then proceeded to cut off the tailgate and latches, then ground it all smooth and threw 2 coats of Rustoleum on it all.  I was looking for wire to redo it all and got lucky on black friday. West Marine was having 20% off everything and free shipping so I picked up some sheathed and tinned marine grade 14g 2-wire and 3-wire for under $18. I then got a trailer wiring junction box and some 1/2" pvc pipe and proper mounting brackets for it.  Ordered Optronics One led rear lights and new led side markers, once that arrived I proceeded to rewire it all I ran the wires down the side of the trailer, inside the fender through the pvc pipe, then any point where it was exposed I used wire loom, and doubled it in any place that might rub against the body of the trailer. 

  Next I went out and got the new PVC plywood that can be found in some major chain home repair stores, I got mine at HD. It is 4'x8' true measurement, 1/2" thick sheet of pvc that cuts with normal wood cutting blades, never rots, holds screws super well and also takes acrylic paint like a champion. I had HD cut the sheets for me to some different sizes and I got lucky with a guy who was clearly skilled with the saw there and every cut came out clean and exactly the same. At this point I am unsure exactly how I want to do the sides , so that is something I am putting on a back burner for now.  I ordered some of scott's no weld towers and then went out and got some squared superstrut tube, bolts and the proper strut nuts. I measured and cut the strut in half into 2- 5' sections, then measured out and mocked everything up in my basement.  The one thing for sure is that the front of my trailer will be a 47" x 19" black diamond plate tool box that I have at home, there will be a battery and power connections inside, as well as a space for my small generator on one side. 

  I decided to do the axle under spring mod , later this week the welder is doing my spring seats for me, and thursday my new tires will be here. I decided to upgrade from the stock 12-5.30" bias ply 65mph tires (which in no way was good enough for how I drive, lol) to some 175r13 Class C radial tires and black rims with a 81mph speed rating. They are 3.5" taller then the 12-5.30 stock tires, so should sit at exactly the same spacing in relation to the fenders as it is now, since you gain about 3.5" in height with this swap. 


After doing some thinking about my needs I decided to lengthen my trailer tongue 12" to accommodate the 12"x 30" wide aluminum tool box I had primed and bed lined for the previous project that got scrapped.I will put tire repair and replacement tools , straps, bungees and the like in the box.   Adding this length will help prevent hitting the box with the back of my GMC Terrain if I were to jackknife it. With my tongue now 5' long I took it to a local welder and had him weld on a pipe swivel jack mount, chain retainers in the front, then a second set of chain retainers 16" further back so there is a place to hang the chains when not hooked to a vehicle. There are some more mods I am working  on and I will post about those as they come along more. I will hopefully be able to post some pictures in the next few days , weather allowing.


Thanks for the write up! I too am building a 4x6 Overland/utility camp trailer. Haven't gotten started yet, still saving money and finalizing the design I want. Could you possibly upload pictures of the mods you've done already? I am curious to see how you've done it. Also, this PVC plywood you speak of, do you know the proper name for it? I'm going to HD this evening to see if I can find it here in GA. Thanks in advance. Looking forward to following your build.

Here is a link for what home depot shows on their website. Most of my local stores didn't have it in store, but one 20 minutes away did. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-HP-1.../205309788  They refer to it as pvc trim, it's dense cellular pvc or vinyl in a single layer sheet,  they also have varying sizes of boards that could be useful for low sides or framing. It can be glued using pvc pipe cement also. I don't think the one I got is the Veranda brand showing on the website, and in store it was only $63 a sheet.  Being that it is only 1/2" thick is is not super rigid, but makes a good floor or perhaps box walls with frame support. I am going out to take a couple pictures here in a little bit before it gets dark.


Thank You 
I just looked it up on my app, and supposedly my store has plenty of those in stock.
I’m thinking if you do a 1x2 or 2x2 frame and use this as the sheathing, then it would be fairly strong. I would be using just to store gear in and not support any weight. My rack would be supporting the RTT and awning.
Derek C.
Hampton, GA

LordKaos

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Posts: 54
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Joined: Dec 2018
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#6
So I am looking at the pvc sheet in the link and I realize it is the type that one side is smooth and one side textured to look like rough wood. Several of the boards are like that, but the sheet I bought at HD was smooth on both sides.

LordKaos

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Posts: 54
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Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 0

#7
(01-02-2019, 11:45 AM) dcollier32 Wrote: Thank You 
I just looked it up on my app, and supposedly my store has plenty of those in stock.
I’m thinking if you do a 1x2 or 2x2 frame and use this as the sheathing, then it would be fairly strong. I would be using just to store gear in and not support any weight. My rack would be supporting the RTT and awning.


I feel like it would excel in that use, it seems to have good strength, a little bit of flex and cuts very well, just don't move too slow with the saw as it can scorch a bit, it is also a bit heavy. I did just have a mishap today with my sheet that is on the trailer. I was only using 2 bolts and sets of fender washers at the rear to hold the sheet down temporarily. Well I failed to check the tightness of those bolts after putting them in and consequently I lost one while driving, then the sheet slammed up and down with just one corner attached and that corner cracked off. This is a $65 lesson learned the hard way!

LordKaos

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Posts: 54
Threads: 2
Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 0

#8
[Image: 20190102_163436_zpsumgh4cbg.jpg]

This is under the trailer coming off the junction box.

[Image: 20190102_163420_zpsx1b7n5d9.jpg]

Junction box with the 4-round wire going in and then the wires going through the pvc attached to junction box.
[Image: 20190102_163325_zpsanb5lxwn.jpg]
Pvc pipe running along the side, inside the fender.
[Image: 20190102_163311_zpshmdimnr5.jpg]
here is the label on the pvc sheet.
[Image: 20190102_163144_zpse7fcfq07.jpg]
Here are the front and rear chain retainers.
[Image: 20190102_163132_zpsxtmxs6xx.jpg]
Extended tongue to 5' from 4', pipe jack mounted, coupler handle and changed out the coupler size to 2" from 1-7/8" so I could use the same size ball on all my stuff. 
[Image: 20190102_163038_zpsnfwrlbr5.jpg]
Pvc pipe running down the side to the rear lights.
[Image: 20190102_163032_zps2dfa3odj.jpg]
New Optronics led lights, with sheathed marine grade wiring , everything covered in wire loom and any place it contacted the frame it was doubled up.



[Image: 20190102_163511_zps7oxvuthv.jpg]
I upgraded to much sturdier 4-round plug and outlet and heavy duty 4-round trailer wire.  My vehicle didn't have a place to attach the outlet to so I put it on the bottom of the hitch frame, had a hell of a time drilling the holes, broke off a screw or 3, ended up jury rigged and tons of epoxy but is rock solid now!

dcollier32

Senior Member


Posts: 67
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 3

#9
(01-02-2019, 03:15 PM) LordKaos Wrote: [Image: 20190102_163436_zpsumgh4cbg.jpg]

This is under the trailer coming off the junction box.

[Image: 20190102_163420_zpsx1b7n5d9.jpg]

Junction box with the 4-round wire going in and then the wires going through the pvc attached to junction box.
[Image: 20190102_163325_zpsanb5lxwn.jpg]
Pvc pipe running along the side, inside the fender.
[Image: 20190102_163311_zpshmdimnr5.jpg]
here is the label on the pvc sheet.
[Image: 20190102_163144_zpse7fcfq07.jpg]
Here are the front and rear chain retainers.
[Image: 20190102_163132_zpsxtmxs6xx.jpg]
Extended tongue to 5' from 4', pipe jack mounted, coupler handle and changed out the coupler size to 2" from 1-7/8" so I could use the same size ball on all my stuff. 
[Image: 20190102_163038_zpsnfwrlbr5.jpg]
Pvc pipe running down the side to the rear lights.
[Image: 20190102_163032_zps2dfa3odj.jpg]
New Optronics led lights, with sheathed marine grade wiring , everything covered in wire loom and any place it contacted the frame it was doubled up.



[Image: 20190102_163511_zps7oxvuthv.jpg]
I upgraded to much sturdier 4-round plug and outlet and heavy duty 4-round trailer wire.  My vehicle didn't have a place to attach the outlet to so I put it on the bottom of the hitch frame, had a hell of a time drilling the holes, broke off a screw or 3, ended up jury rigged and tons of epoxy but is rock solid now!


Nice work!
Where did you say you found the round 4 wire cable? 
I'm thinking about adding a 7 way plug and wire to mine. I just won't be using the electric brakes portion. That way when I mount my deep cycle battery to the trailer, my tow vehicle can charge it back up while traveling to my next spot. I may or may not use the reverse light circuit as well. I'm also looking into adding 2 x 2 x .25 square tubing, welded direct to the stock tongue on the trailer. I would like to extended roughly 18" and set it up in a way that I could use one of them Max Couplers for going off road.  Have you done the spring over axle conversion yet? If so, did you buy new spring perches to do it?
Derek C.
Hampton, GA

LordKaos

Senior Member


Posts: 54
Threads: 2
Joined: Dec 2018
Reputation: 0

#10
Here is the wire, it is nice wire, with a huge temperature tolerance range and the convenience of being properly trailer color coded for easy referencing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Light-C...2749.l2649 

It's interesting that you mention the ability to charge from the vehicle. Shortly after I got my suv a buddy and I ran 8awg power line all the way from the battery to the back. I used a 30 amp marine grade surface mount circuit breaker, and a battery charging and isolation solenoid , there is a fuse tap running off the main ecu fuse to the solenoid so that it only connects when the vehicle is turned on so there is no chance of draw on the main vehicle battery if it isn't running.  I used anderson SB50 heavy power connectors and weatherproof boots at the rear of the vehicle and on the trailer. I am currently still working on my battery box and external outlets for the trailer so have not run the 8awg line in the trailer yet, but I used 3/4" flexible pvc pipe inside the tongue and the power lines slide right in there with the trailer wire no problem.

I did purchase new Spring Seats, will be disassembling tomorrow and my welder is putting them on friday evening.
 
 
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